There are two kinds of brocade, cotton brocade and zari brocade. In brocade, the warp and the weft are supplemented by special threads in gold, silver or silk. These form the pattern when weaving and also determine the nature of the brocade. Cotton fabric is brocaded with cotton and zari threads to create one of the most delicate products of the loom. Another form of brocading is created by the inlay of white threads over an organza jail to give an appearance of delicate filigree patterns cut out on a sheer almost transparent background.

In zari brocades gold and silver are used alongwith silk threads, either as the special warp or weft, to create glittering raised ornamentation. The main centres of brocading are located in Varanasi, Surat, Chanderi, Bangalore, Kanchipuram, Chennai, Bengal and Venkatagiri.