The very name Banaras conjures up a vision of silk-rich,
rare and highly prized. Lustrous silk are embellished
with gold and silver threads. For this reason it is
customary for brides in many parts of India to wear
a Banaras sari for wedding ceremony.
Banaras brocades are said to be the finest in India.
The brocades are most gorgeous and highly ornamental
of all Indian textiles. The designs are produced by
warp and weft threads of different colours and materials,
suitably woven. The most famous in legend and the
history are the Kinkhabs - woven flowers, veritable
cloths of gold. The gold wire was lavishly used in
the ancient days to work out delicate patterns or
the Kinkhabs which used to be manufactured mainly
in Banaras. The design looks different in the front
and back of the material. The designs and colours
used are varied. Banaras brocade saris were once famous
for Shikargarh brocades, which were considered to
be master-pieces of weaver's art. The most traditional
patterns are beldar. The art of brocade weaving has
survived the ravages of times and even today various
types of brocades are produced in large quantity.
In early days gold and silver was drawn into extremely fine
wire which was used both for warp and weft and woven into
fabric. The method of drawing out gold thread was interesting,
though slow and laborious. After the gold is beaten out
to the needed length and size, it is passed through eye
holes of ever decreasing size till it becomes as fine as
a cotton thread and then woven on a handloom. Though Banaras
is the chief centre of brocades, this art spread to other
places too, such as Surat, Aurangabad, Bhopal and Tanjore.