Varanasi or Kashi has an ancient history of textile designing. The most exquisite brocades in silk and gold are woven by the weavers on silk pit loom. The weavers of Varanasi are best known for their skill in brocade weaving and known as Kinkhabs. There are many exquisite designs in this variety and it is even impossible to copy or imitate the saris as the loom is very intricate in construction.

The designs are translated by "Naksha Bandas" on to frames or Kakshas. The Naksha is tied to the loom. At times, more than six shuttles are used to get multi-colours in 'buttas' ornaments used in the body of sari. There are some famous brocade saris showing the cowherd god Krishna and his cow and another playing on flute. Varanasi weavers have re-oriented this to bring out a fine cutwork pattern.

In Ajanta frescoes similar designs are shown and contain all over buttas woven with gold thread. In some saris designs human figures land animals motifs are used. This delicate work of Kinkhab saris is famous all over the world. Some of the patterns like peacocks, parrots, decorative leaves and flowers are used as corner designs.

Brocade saris if Varanasi is a speciality. This place is known for its superb and infinite variety of silk weaving. Brocade weaving is done by three persons. The Joria is seated behind the loom-raises the selected threads of silk warp. On these the embroidery is laid with shuttles of gold, silver and silk thread by the karigar, the master weaver assisted by the joria or the weaving assistant. The warp threads are then lowered and the weft is picked up. The origin of this old technique has been obscured by time but the Moghul influence is seen in the motifs, which often depict floral patterns and hunting scenes.